Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
